The Nook keeps your patterns, counters, notes, and yarn in one calm place on your iPad and iPhone. This guide walks through every part of the app. Start at the top or jump to the chapter you need.
Chapter 1
Your patterns, plans, and making time, all in one cozy nook. Start with an account or take a look around first.
On the welcome screen, tap Continue with Apple or Continue with Google to create a Nook account or sign back in. Been here before? Sign in the same way you did last time. If you see a last used label, that's the one you picked before.
If your Apple and Google sign-ins use the same email address, they open the same Nook account. Apple's Hide My Email gives The Nook a different, hidden email address, so it may create a separate account. To see the same library everywhere, sign in the same way, with the same account, on every device.
Not ready to sign in? Tap look around as a guest to start without an account. Guests are on the Free plan, which includes up to 3 patterns and 3 yarn entries. Looking around as a guest doesn't start your free trial.
Your first eligible sign-in starts a 14-day free trial of Pro, with cloud backup and sync included. Signing back in to an existing account keeps its current plan and doesn't restart the trial. The trial won't turn into a paid subscription on its own. You only pay if you choose to subscribe. When the trial ends, you can stay on Free or choose Pro. See chapter 10 for the plans.
The first time you open the app, a short tour shows you around. Tap Next or swipe to move through it, or tap Skip to go straight to Home. On the last screen, pick Cats, Sheep, or Cozy corner as your companion, then tap Get started to open Home. Your companion sets the illustrations you'll see around the app, and you can switch anytime under Settings → Appearance → Companion.
As a guest, everything stays on this device. Nothing is copied to the cloud, so if you delete the app or lose your device, you could lose that work. When you're ready, sign in from Settings and your guest library comes with you.
Cloud backup and sync need an active trial or Pro. Signing in on Free doesn't turn them on. During your trial or with Pro, sign in to the same Nook account on your iPhone and iPad. Before you count on the cloud copy, check in Settings that sync has finished. On any plan, including Free, you can also export a backup ZIP from Settings → Backup & restore → Export a backup. See chapter 9.
Patterns and data already on your device work offline. You'll need an internet connection to sign in, use Ravelry, sync, or download a pattern that's only stored in the cloud.
Your Nook account and your Ravelry account are separate. Apple or Google signs you in to The Nook, and you connect Ravelry on its own. Connect it to browse patterns, yarns, and ideas, or to bring in your Ravelry library, projects, and stash. You'll need to connect it on each device you use. See chapter 3.
Ready to begin? Open Projects and tap ＋ new project to add your first pattern. Chapter 2 walks you through it.
Chapter 2
A project keeps your pattern, counters, notes, and photos together. Keep future ideas in Plans, then bring them into Projects when you're ready.
In the Projects tab, you can switch between Projects, Plans, and Ravelry.
With Pro, you can also start a project with just a blank note and no pattern file. To add a Ravelry pattern, connect your account and use the Ravelry tab instead. See chapter 3.
If The Nook can read a title or designer name in your PDF, it fills them in as a starting draft. It's only a guess from the PDF's wording, so check or edit both in Project details.
With Pro, Add pattern → Choose File lets you import up to 100 PDFs from Files at once, and each one becomes its own project. If The Nook finds duplicates, you can skip them or keep them as separate copies. Your original files stay where they are. You can pause and resume the import, or retry any files that couldn't be saved. PDFs that already saved stay in your library.
Very large PDFs, or ones with lots of pictures, can take longer to import and open. If one is slow, try a smaller copy. Password-protected or damaged PDFs may not import at all. If a file is stored in the cloud and isn't on your device yet, download it in the Files app first, then try again. Picking fewer files at once can help too. For more import help, tap ? in the new-project sheet.
The list only shows groups that have projects in them:
Hibernating and UFO count from your cast-on date, not from the last time you opened the project. Your dates, progress, and make status decide which group a project lands in. Tap a group heading to fold it away. Finished starts out folded.
You can add, rename, reorder, or remove folders, and move projects between them. Removing a folder doesn't delete its projects. They just move back to the main list.
Once you have six or more projects, a search box appears so you can find them by name. The status filter shows up when you have enough projects and the folder you're in has projects with different statuses. Switch between list and grid views. In grid view, use the size control to make cards bigger or fit more on screen.
Use a card's ⋯ menu to rename a project, choose its cover photo, move it to another folder, or Make it again. With Sync, you can also keep its PDF on this device so it opens without internet.
Plans is where you keep things you'd like to make. Save a name, pattern, notes, yarn, and a PDF if you have one, then sort your ideas into folders. You can attach a PDF from Files, Google Drive, or Dropbox. Plans are unlimited on both Free and Pro. The usual pattern limits only apply when you turn one into a project.
Make a plan yourself, save one from a Ravelry pattern, or tap Import your Ravelry queue instead in the new-plan sheet. When you're ready, tap Start project. If the plan has a PDF attached, it comes along. A Ravelry plan can use the pattern's download if there is one. If there isn't, attach your own PDF or start without one.
The Shopping list collects the yarn you still need for your plans, along with any shopping notes you add yourself. After you buy yarn, open its item, enter how much you bought, and save it to your inventory. The plans that need that yarn update, and anything you still need stays on the list.
With Pro or an active trial, choose Make it again from the card menu when you want a second pair or another size. Before the next one starts, you can leave the last make in progress or mark it finished or frogged. More than one make can be in progress at once.
The new make keeps the pattern, pen marks, text boxes, bookmarks, stages, counter setup, and the project details you'll want again. Progress, row counts, chart marks, time, dates, photos, yarn, and the Ravelry project link start fresh. You choose whether to clear your highlighter marks for the new make.
To look back at earlier makes, with their notes, photos, and time, open Makes in Project details. In the project list, each make in progress gets its own card, and finished makes of the same pattern are grouped together.
To remove several projects at once, tap Select in the Projects list, then pick cards or tap Select all to choose everything in the current filter. Read the confirmation before you delete. This removes whole projects with all their makes, not just the make shown on each card.
When you delete a project, Keep time records is selected by default, so its name and making time stay in your Calendar and statistics. Choose Delete time records if you want that time gone too.
If a project has several makes, Delete this make removes only that make and its photos. The other makes and their shared pattern stay. Deleting the last make removes the project too. Delete project removes everything, including the pattern and every make. Read the confirmation before you continue.
If a project is linked to Ravelry, deleting it in The Nook doesn't delete it on Ravelry.
Add progress photos, up to 10 at a time, from the project's gallery or the Photos tab in Project details. You can view them full-screen, swipe between them, delete ones you don't need, or set a favorite as the project cover. Each make keeps its own photos.
Record your craft, pattern and designer, needles or hooks, pattern gauge and your actual gauge, the yarn you used, the size you made, who it's for, and notes. Public and private notes each have their own field.
Your changes save automatically in The Nook. If the project is linked to Ravelry, or you've chosen to add it there, tap Save to send your details to Ravelry. Private notes go to Ravelry as private notes, so they stay private there too.
Set your cast-on and finished dates by hand, tap CO today or FO today, or pick a date from the calendar. These dates show up in the calendar's project list and timeline. In the calendar grid, colored bars mark the days you recorded making time, plus your cast-on and finished dates. They don't fill in every day between cast-on and finish. You can choose a calendar color once you've set a cast-on date. See chapter 8 for the calendar.
Finish by is an optional goal date you can set after cast-on. The small ring on your card shows how much time has passed toward that date, not rows done or sessions completed. It won't send reminders or mark the project finished, so set the real finished date when you're done.
Project dates and the calendar work on both Free and Pro. So do daily calendar notes.
Chapter 3
Find your next pattern, see what other people made, and keep your Ravelry projects right next to your patterns.
To browse, open Projects → Ravelry. You can use Ravelry on both Free and Pro. The Nook's usual limits still count when you save a pattern or add yarn to your inventory.
Connect your Ravelry account to search patterns and yarns, see your Favorites and Library, open My projects, bring in your queue or stash, and send changes back to Ravelry. If you aren't connected yet, you'll see a Connect Ravelry button. You sign in on Ravelry's own page, so The Nook never sees your password.
The account menu has Disconnect Ravelry and Blocked people. If The Nook asks you to reconnect before you can comment, disconnect and then connect again. This gives The Nook the permission it needs.
You don't need to connect to add yarn by hand. When you type a yarn name or colorway in Inventory, autocomplete can still suggest names from Ravelry's yarn list. See chapter 7.
Choose Patterns or Yarns above the results. On a smaller screen, tap the button that shows what you're browsing to switch. Switching clears the search box.
For patterns, search by name. You can narrow the results by craft, free or paid, language, and category, and change the sort order. Open a card to see photos, gauge, yarn weight, needles or hooks, yardage, and languages. Tap the designer's name to see more of their patterns. Tap the heart to add a pattern to Favorites.
For yarns, search by yarn name or brand, then filter by weight and fiber. Sort by Most projects, Highest rated, or Best match. Until you type at least two letters, you'll see popular yarns.
Favorites has two views, Patterns and Projects. A pattern favorite saves a pattern you like. A project favorite saves something another person made. Adding a favorite doesn't download the PDF. To save the pattern file in The Nook, use Add to The Nook when a file is available.
Your Favorites are the same ones you have on Ravelry. Heart something here and it's a favorite on Ravelry too. Remove the heart and it goes away on Ravelry as well. You can search your favorite patterns by name or designer. As your list grows, you'll also see craft, category, and sort options.
Use Add to The Nook for a free pattern or one you already own. If a pattern costs money and you don't own it yet, Buy on Ravelry opens Ravelry so you can buy it there. Buying it and saving it as a project are two separate steps.
If there's more than one file, pick the language or PDF you want. Some free patterns have to be added to your Ravelry Library before they can download. When that happens, The Nook asks you first.
Some patterns are on a designer's own website or in a book, so there's no PDF to download. You can open the original page, add your own PDF, or start without a file. If a download doesn't work, that doesn't mean you don't own the pattern.
Very large PDFs, or ones with lots of pictures, can take longer to import, open, or sync. If a file won't import, try a smaller copy.
Library shows the patterns in your Ravelry library, both free and paid. Open one, then use Add to The Nook if a PDF is available. You can search by name, filter by craft, price, or category, and sort by Recently added or Oldest first. For purchase only tells you it's a paid pattern. It doesn't mean you need to buy it again.
Patterns you've already added are marked In The Nook. If the designer has put out an update, Library can show their notes about it. You can also check from inside the pattern. In a project with a Ravelry PDF, tap → Check for pattern updates in the viewer.
Tap Get the new version to swap in the new PDF, or Not now to keep the one you have. Your photos, notes, and pen marks stay. Pen marks stay on the same page numbers, so if the designer moved pages around, check that your marks are still in the right place.
Tap Add to Plans on a pattern to make a new plan. You can name it and add notes, yarn, and a PDF. When you tap Save, the plan is saved in The Nook and the pattern is added to your Ravelry queue (or linked to it, if it's already there). Nothing is added if you just open the sheet or cancel.
After that, tap ✓ Added to Plans to open your plan. If the plan saved but The Nook couldn't confirm it reached your Ravelry queue, tap Retry queue. This finishes that step without making a second plan.
To bring in your Ravelry queue, go to Projects → Plans → ＋ and choose Import your Ravelry queue instead. Pick the patterns you want or tap Select all. Ones you've already imported are marked. Plans you make yourself, or import from your queue, aren't added to your Ravelry queue.
When you're ready, tap Start project in the plan. Editing, deleting, or starting a plan in The Nook doesn't change your queue on Ravelry. See chapter 2 for more on Plans and the Shopping list.
Open a pattern's Projects tab to see photos and notes from people who made it. Filter by All, Finished, or In progress, and sort by Newest first, Oldest first, or Most saved.
Use a comment's ⋯ menu to block that person in The Nook. Their comments will be hidden here, but your block list on Ravelry won't change. To see or change who you've blocked, go to Blocked people in the account menu. To report a comment, tap Report on Ravelry, which opens the project's page on Ravelry.
When you open a yarn, you'll see three views:
My projects shows your projects straight from Ravelry. Looking through the list doesn't copy them into The Nook. It starts on All, newest first, and you can filter by In progress or Finished. New comments shows up when there are comments you haven't read in The Nook yet. The Nook keeps track of this on its own, so it won't change what Ravelry shows as unread.
Tap a project's title to see its details, photos, and comments. Edit project opens the same editor you use for your other projects. If the project isn't in The Nook yet, The Nook adds a linked copy first so you can edit it. Open takes you into the project.
To work from the pattern, tap the pattern row in the details. If you own a PDF of it, you can pick and download it there. If not, the project can open with a note page instead. Opening a project this way adds it to your Projects list.
The linked copy includes the project name, craft, public and private notes, gauge, needles or hooks, size, who it's for, yarn, dates, and status. Its Ravelry photos show up next to your own photos, but they aren't saved for offline use. The pattern PDF is downloaded separately. It isn't part of the project details.
Open Project details, or choose Edit project in My projects. If the project isn't on Ravelry yet, turn on the Ravelry switch and tap Save. This creates the project on Ravelry. If it's already linked, Save updates it. You can also tap Update Ravelry in the Ravelry detail sheet.
Your changes save in The Nook automatically, but they only go to Ravelry when you tap Save or Update Ravelry. The Nook can send the name, craft, dates, status and progress, yarn, gauge, needles or hooks, size, who it's for, and notes. Public notes and private notes each go to their matching place on Ravelry.
When you open a linked project's details, The Nook checks Ravelry for changes. If the same details were changed in both places, you'll see Changes found in both places. Choose Keep The Nook or Use Ravelry before you send another update.
New photos are sent along with the update. Photos already on Ravelry aren't uploaded again. If you delete a photo that's on Ravelry, it's removed in The Nook first, and tapping Save removes it from Ravelry too. If an update or upload doesn't go through, the screen tells you. Saving in The Nook alone doesn't mean Ravelry got the change.
In Inventory → Yarn, choose the option to import from Ravelry. Pick the yarns you want or tap Select all, then tap Import. Yarns you've already imported are marked, and you can't pick them again. On Free, you can import as many as fit in your 3 yarn spaces. If you pick more than that, choose fewer or upgrade to Pro.
Each yarn comes in with whatever Ravelry has: name and brand, colorway, dye lot, weight, fiber, amounts, notes, and photo. They're sorted by weight. Importing doesn't change your stash on Ravelry.
In Inventory → Tools, you can import needles and hooks with their size in mm, type, length, and notes. Ones you already have are skipped. Ones without a size The Nook can read can't be imported. This doesn't change anything on Ravelry either.
You can send yarn to Ravelry too. When you add a yarn, turn on Ravelry to add it to your Ravelry stash as well. If a yarn is already linked, saving your changes updates it on Ravelry while you're connected. See chapter 7.
Chapter 4
The viewer keeps your pattern, your place, and your project tools together. Read, mark a tricky instruction, or work through a chart without leaving your project.
At the top of the viewer, you'll find , the project name, and the menu. The drawing tools are arranged to fit your screen. Tap the name to rename the project. Your stage, progress, and timer are close by. The counter dock starts folded, so open it when you need it. See chapter 5 for counters and making time.
A pattern always opens with drawing turned off. You might see the tools, but that doesn't mean your finger or Pencil will draw. Tap or to start marking. Tap the same tool again to go back to reading. If you see , tap it to hide the tools. This doesn't turn drawing off.
Your marks and reading tools save as you go. Changes in Project details save automatically too. Sticky notes are different: tap Add note or Save to keep them. With Pro, a blank-note project lets you use the viewer without a pattern file. A Text page project opens its text editor instead. See chapter 2.
Here's what's in the menu. Tools you can use on Free come first.
| Tool | Free | Pro |
|---|---|---|
| Project details | ✓ | ✓ |
| Photos | ✓ | ✓ |
| Making time | ✓ | ✓ |
| All pages | ✓ | ✓ |
| Bookmarks | ✓ | ✓ |
| Share your progress | ✓ | ✓ |
| Check for pattern updatesRavelry PDF projects, when you're connected | ✓ | ✓ |
| Calculator | ✓ | ✓ |
| Make it again | · | ✓ |
| Export with notes | · | ✓ |
| Page color | · | ✓ |
| Printed ink | · | ✓ |
| Note pageAdds a blank page | · | ✓ |
| FilesAdds a PDF or image as extra pages | · | ✓ |
| Gauge calculator | · | ✓ |
| Shaping | · | ✓ |
| Bust dartsKnitting projects only | · | ✓ |
You'll find Post to Ravelry in Project details. Chapter 3 covers posting to Ravelry and pattern updates. Chapter 6 covers exporting your marked-up pages.
In a PDF project, tap . Type a word or phrase and tap Search, or press Return. Pick a result, or use the arrows to move from one match to the next. When you close search, you go back to where you were.
Search only works if the PDF has real text in it. A scanned page may look like writing, but it's really a picture, so there's no text to search. If a PDF has real text, you can also press and hold to select and copy it while you read. Turn off any drawing tool first.
→ Page color gives the page a different paper color. Pick a ready-made color or your own, then adjust Strength. To remove it, choose No color.
→ Printed ink changes the color of the black and gray print but leaves the pattern's bright colors alone. Pick a color and adjust Contrast, or go back with Original printed ink. The viewer may adjust the paper or ink color a little to keep the page easy to read. These settings don't change your pen and highlighter colors.
The tools include , , , , , T for text boxes, and the . The palette also has a thickness button and your colors. , , and are next to the tools or in the top bar, depending on your screen. The two color buttons hold your saved colors. Tap one to use it, then use the color picker if you want to change it.
Use the palette's ＋ menu to put a Sticky note or an Image (Pro) on the page you're reading. You can move, resize, and rotate an image you place this way. To add whole new pages instead, use → Files. See chapter 6 for more about marking and exporting your pattern.
→ All pages opens the Pages overview. Tap a thumbnail to select it, then tap Done to open that page. Tap the number below a thumbnail to jump straight to it, or tap its to bookmark it. The page you're on has an outline, and the overview opens right where it is, even in a long pattern.
Changed your mind? Tap Cancel at the top left to undo the rotations you haven't saved. In photo and note-paper projects, Cancel also undoes page moves and deletions you haven't saved. Blank pages you've added and bookmark changes are already saved, so they stay. In PDF projects, pages you've added and extra pages you've already deleted stay that way too.
You can rotate PDF, image, and blank note pages. Text pages don't have rotate buttons. Until you save or cancel a rotation, you can't add, delete, or bookmark pages, so tap Done or Cancel first.
→ Bookmarks lets you bookmark the page you're on, remove a bookmark, or jump to a bookmarked page. Bookmarks also show along the edge of the pattern.
The is a line you can move to keep your place. Turn it on from the palette, drag it up or down, and drag either end to make it wider or narrower. It stays where you leave it, even after you close and reopen the project. Move it yourself as you work. Counting a row on a counter doesn't move it.
puts a colored band over the row you're working on. Scroll to the chart, then tap . A short tutorial shows the first time. To watch it again, tap ? in Chart settings.
To open settings again, tap the row count (like 3 / 16). You can change the frame if the chart changes shape, or tap ＋ chart area to add another one. Rows you've finished stay highlighted as you go.
To stop tracking, tap ✕ on the chart bar or End chart in settings. This doesn't delete the chart area or erase your finished-row highlights. To remove an area and its progress, tap Delete area in settings and confirm. You can't undo this.
The button clears your drawn marks and finished-row highlights on the page you're on. If you didn't mean to, tap right away to bring them back.
Choose ＋ → Sticky note in the palette. Type your note, pick one of five pastel colors, and choose how much it tilts. Tap straight to straighten it, then tap Add note to place it. When you edit a note, tap Save to keep your changes or Cancel to throw them away.
Drag a sticky note with your finger to move it, or tap it to edit. To remove it, choose Delete note while editing. When a drawing tool is on, Apple Pencil can write on top of the note. To type straight onto the pattern without a sticky note, choose T and tap where you want the text.
→ Gauge calculator has three tabs. Results change as you type, and centimeters and inches update together.
Your gauge is the same one shown in Project details. Clear my gauge clears your swatch numbers but keeps the pattern gauge. Clear all clears everything you've entered in the calculator.
Shaping works out when to increase or decrease. Enter the length you want after blocking, your row gauge, and how many stitches you start and end with. Make this a counter turns the result into a counter you can follow as you work. You can also open Shaping from the gauge calculator.
Bust darts is for knitting projects. It plans short rows using your gauge after blocking, your front stitch count, and your bust measurements. Choose top down or bottom up, and adjust how far apart the turns are. Calculator is a plain calculator for quick math.
→ Photos opens the same photo gallery as Project details, with your progress shots, finished piece, and reference photos. These photos belong to the project, not to a page. To put a photo on a pattern page, use the palette's ＋ → Image.
Chapter 5
Keep track of the row you're on, the repeats you're working on, and the time you've spent making.
The dock starts folded so your pattern gets most of the screen. It has three sizes:
Row counters and progress stages help you keep track of your work. They also work in a blank note-paper project (Pro).
The main ＋ and − change your Row number by one, along with every linked extra counter. No counter goes below zero.
To jump to a row, tap the large Row number, type the number, and press Return or tap somewhere else. Your extra counters move by the same amount, but none go below zero. To fix just one extra counter, change that counter's number instead.
reset all asks you to confirm, then sets the main row count and every extra counter back to zero. Your counters stay, with their names, intervals, and targets. Counter changes save as you go.
The is a line you move yourself. It doesn't follow the counter. If is on, its band does move with the main ＋ and −. See chapter 4 for both tools.
Choose ＋ add counter and set up the repeat the way your pattern says it, like every 7 rows, 8 times. Give it a name, tap the numbers to change them, and choose × times if the repeat ends or forever if it doesn't. You'll see suggested names like Lace, Sleeve dec, and Waist shaping. Check the preview, then tap Add counter.
A new counter starts at zero, even if your main Row number is already well into the project. It counts from the moment you add it.
The ring shows where you are in the current repeat, and the smaller line shows how many repeats you've finished. For every 7 rows, 8 times, reaching row 7 finishes the first repeat, and the next tap starts the second. A counter with a target shows Done ✓ when you reach it. If a counter repeats every 1 row, it simply shows the count.
In the full view, tap a counter's to change its name, interval, or target, then tap Save. Delete counter asks you first, then removes the counter and its count. Cancel closes without changing anything.
Until a counter is done, you can tap its large number to fix where you are in the current repeat. Your finished repeats stay, and the main Row count and other counters don't change.
In the counter editor, open Adjust for my gauge. Enter the pattern's interval at the top, then the pattern's row gauge and your row gauge after blocking. Use rows, not stitches, and check the measurement shown next to each gauge.
If your gauge needs a different interval, a button shows the suggested change, like 7 → every 8 rows. Tap it to use the suggestion, check the preview, then save the counter. Just typing in your gauge doesn't change the interval. You have to tap the button. If the numbers round to the same interval, there's nothing to change.
Changing an interval keeps your finished repeats. These gauges are the same ones in the Gauge calculator and Project details. Your gauge before blocking is kept separately. See chapter 4 for the full calculator.
To open Progress, tap ＋ Set progress, or tap the stage name or progress bar if you've already set it up. Choose a construction type, one of your saved presets, or ＋ Custom.
On a new project, choosing a type gives you a list of stages with none picked yet, so progress starts at 0%. It doesn't set your cast-on date. Tap the stage you're working on to start tracking. In a regular stage list, the stages before it are marked done and the ones after it go back to not started.
Changes save automatically. There's no separate Save button for choosing a stage or editing an existing stage list. Look for Saved automatically. If saving doesn't work, you'll see Retry.
In Edit stages, tap a name to rename it, drag its handle to move it, add a stage, or remove one with ✕. Change type lets you pick a different list. Clear stages removes the stage list, and you can Undo it. If the make isn't finished or frogged, this also clears its cast-on date and calendar color, so it goes back to Not started. Your recorded making time stays. Finished and frogged makes keep their dates.
To make a list you can use again, choose ＋ Custom, name the preset, and add at least one stage. Tap Add preset to save it and use it on this project. Nothing is saved until you tap that button. After that, it shows up under Your presets for your other projects too. Press and hold a saved preset to rename it, or tap its ✕ to delete it.
Sock-pair presets have a Sock 1 group and a Sock 2 group. Open either one and pick the stage you're on, or choose Mark sock 1 complete or Mark sock 2 complete. Starting the second sock doesn't mark the first one done. Each sock keeps its own place.
Every stage counts the same. The percentage is the number of stages that are in progress or complete, out of the whole list. If you've started one stage out of seven, that's about 14%, even if you only just began it. It's a rough guide based on stages, not a count of stitches, rows, or time.
You can check or fix the dates in Project details. Dates show up in the calendar's project list and timeline. In the calendar grid, colored bars mark the days you recorded making time, plus your cast-on and finished dates. See chapter 8.
You can use the timer on Free and Pro. The controls are next to the project's progress:
The big clock shows the total time for the current make, including earlier sittings, in hours, minutes, and seconds. If you've used Make it again, time from earlier makes stays with those makes. The smaller line shows this sitting while the timer is running or paused, and this week when it isn't.
To have the timer start on its own, turn on Settings → General → Auto-start timer. The timer then starts when you open a project, unless a sitting is already going. It won't restart a sitting you've paused. This works on Free and Pro. The setting is off at first and only applies to this device, so your iPhone and iPad can be set differently.
Finished sittings are added to your time history, making days, and statistics, along with the number of rows you counted in that sitting. If your trial or Pro ends, you keep all the time you've already recorded.
Open → Making time to see the current make's total time, making days, a calendar, and time entries grouped by date. Tap a marked date to jump to its entries.
Tap an entry to change its date or length, or choose Delete time and confirm to remove it. You can add and fix time on Free too.
Reset time asks you to confirm, then clears the current make's time entries and stops its timer. Earlier makes and other projects keep their time. This isn't the same as reset all in the counter dock, which resets row counts.
If your iPhone supports Live Activities and they're turned on, tapping a row control or starting the timer can put a card on your Lock Screen, and in the Dynamic Island if your iPhone has one. Just opening a project doesn't create a card. But if Auto-start timer is on, opening a project starts the timer, which can create the card. If you see Settings → General → Live Activity, you can turn these cards on or off there.
If you start with the timer, the card shows just the timer. Once you use the row controls, it grows to show the main Row count and a short view of your extra counters. You can only have one project's card at a time. Opening another project removes the card for the last one.
Use the card's ＋ and − to change rows and linked counters. You can also start, pause, and resume the timer from the card, on Free and Pro. The card updates right away, and your project catches up the next time you open The Nook. Open the app to see all your counters or to finish the sitting.
The clock on the Lock Screen shows the current make's total time. On an Always-On display, the dimmed clock may show only hours and minutes. Swiping the card away only hides it. To stop counting time, pause or finish the timer.
Chapter 6
Circle your size, jot an adjustment, or keep a page of instructions beside your work.
Write right on a pattern or a blank note page, add typed text and sticky notes, or start a Text page project for longer notes. Everything you add to a page saves with the project as you go. Project details keeps a separate record of your yarn, gauge, and other notes.
Tap , , or in the palette to turn it on. Tap the same tool again to go back to reading. Picking a color doesn't turn drawing on, and folding the palette doesn't turn a tool off.
While you're drawing with the Pencil, the page ignores your fingers and palm, so they won't interrupt your line or scroll or zoom the page. Once you lift the Pencil, your fingers work as usual again.
When you reopen a project, it opens in reading mode with straight lines off. Your marks and tool sizes are still there. Drawing tools, text boxes, and sticky notes all work on Free.
turns drawing on and makes the pen or highlighter draw straight lines. Drag from where you want the line to start to where you want it to end, and adjust the angle before you lift. When the line is close to horizontal, vertical, or 45°, it snaps into place.
Use it to cross off a finished row, mark a size column, or underline an instruction. Turn it off to draw freely again. The eraser always follows your hand, even when straight lines are on.
If your Apple Pencil supports double-tap, go to your iPad's Pencil settings and set double-tap to switch to the eraser or switch to the previous tool. With either setting, double-tapping in The Nook swaps between the eraser and the pen or highlighter you were using.
If drawing is off while you read, double-tapping the Pencil turns on the , with straight lines off. If the iPad setting is off or set to show the color palette, The Nook ignores the double-tap.
Tapping the button on the screen again is different. It turns the tool off and takes you back to reading. Tap or to switch straight to that tool.
The button clears the drawing and finished-row highlights on the page you're on, right away. It also resets that page's chart progress. It doesn't ask first.
Tap right away to bring back your marks and chart progress. Once you draw a new stroke, you can't bring them back. Your pattern, text boxes, sticky notes, page images, counters, and Project details aren't touched, and neither are marks on other pages.
Text saves automatically. Tap T again when you're done. To remove a box, tap its ✕ and confirm. The eraser and the button don't remove typed text.
For a note with a colored background, choose ＋ → Sticky note in the palette. Type your note, pick a pastel color and tilt, then tap Add note. Drag it with your finger to move it, or tap it to edit. While editing, Save keeps your changes, Cancel throws them away, and Delete note removes the note after you confirm. See chapter 4.
＋ → Image (Pro) puts a reference picture on the page you're on. While reading, drag the image to move it, and use two fingers to resize or rotate it. To delete it, tap it, then tap its ✕ and confirm.
A page image belongs to that page, like your other marks. To add whole new pattern pages, use → Files. For the project's photo gallery, use → Photos.
With Pro or an active trial, choose Text page when you create a project. It gives you a whole page to type longer instructions on, instead of a small text box on top of a pattern. See chapter 2 for creating the project.
Use Aa to change the font and size, and use the alignment and color buttons to style your text. Insert adds a bulleted list, checklist, date, time, photo, or table. On wider screens, some of these may show right in the toolbar. You can also search for words in the note and undo or redo your changes.
The page saves as you type. Tap Back when you're done to go back to your projects. Its menu has All pages, for jumping around the document, and Export, for saving pages as a PDF, JPG, or PNG. JPG and PNG make one file per page. This export works differently from the pattern export described below.
In the pattern viewer, open → Project details to see the project's notes and photo gallery. Here you can record your craft, pattern and designer, needles or hooks, yarn, size, and who it's for. You can also keep the pattern gauge, your own gauge before and after blocking, cast-on and finished dates, a finish-by date, and a calendar color.
Notes and Private notes are two separate places to write down changes you made, swaps, and reminders. They belong to the project, not to a page, so they don't show on the pattern or in an export.
Changes save automatically in The Nook. Closing this sheet, even with Cancel, doesn't undo changes that already saved. To add the project to Ravelry, turn on its Ravelry switch and tap Save. If it's already linked, Save sends your details to Ravelry. Notes go to Ravelry as public notes, and Private notes go as private notes. See chapter 3.
A Text page project has its own Project details form. Changes there only save in The Nook. They aren't sent to Ravelry.
In a project with pattern or note-paper pages, choose → Export with notes to save a copy with your marks on it. This is a Pro feature, and it's included in the free trial.
The copy includes your pen and highlighter marks, completed chart-row highlights, sticky notes, page images, and text boxes. Your page color and printed ink colors are included too. The row line, the chart bar, bookmarks, counters, and Project details aren't included.
The exported PDF is a flat copy. Each page becomes a picture of the pattern with your marks on it. You can't select text, search, or tap links in it, and you can't edit your marks in the exported file. Your project in The Nook doesn't change.
If the original PDF or a page can't load, the export may stop with an error. Big exports may come out at a lower resolution so your device doesn't run out of memory. Picking only the pages you need makes the export smaller.
Chapter 7
Know what you have before you buy more.
The Inventory tab has three sections: Yarn, Tools, and Buttons. Free includes up to 3 yarn entries, and Pro has no limit. Tools and Buttons don't count toward those 3. If you go back to Free with more yarn than that, you choose 3 yarns to keep using. The rest stay saved but locked.
In Yarn, tap add yarn. Give it a name, then add a photo, colorway, dye lot, weight, and notes if you like. The color picker next to Colorway lets you save the color itself, not just its name.
Enter Total owned in skeins (part skeins count too), and the grams and meters per skein from the yarn label. These are for one skein, not for everything you bought. The yarn's details use them to work out your total grams and meters.
Choose one or more fibers. Other… lets you type in a fiber, and you can add percentages for a blend if you want. If you don't know the percentages, leave them blank.
Once grams and meters are filled in, The Nook guesses the yarn weight. It's only a guess, so if the label says something different, enter that instead. A weight you type always wins. If you clear the field, The Nook guesses again when the amounts change.
Tap Add yarn to save a new yarn, or Save after editing one. To change a yarn later, open its card and tap Edit.
When you use stash yarn in a project, fill in both Total owned and For this project. The Nook takes away what's set aside for projects to show what's left. For example, if you own 6 and 4 are for a project, 2 are left.
A yarn's details list the projects using it. Its card in your stash may show how much is left, while the details show how much you own in total. You can't set the total lower than what's already set aside for projects.
These numbers only come from what you enter. Counting rows or using the timer doesn't track how much yarn you use, so update the amounts yourself when you know. If you later delete the yarn from your inventory, the project still keeps its yarn info.
The built-in folders are Lace, Fingering, Sport, DK, Worsted, Aran, Bulky, and Super bulky. Yarn goes into the folder that matches its weight, including these common names:
If you change a yarn's weight, it may move to a different weight folder when you save. If you put it in a folder of your own, it stays there. If The Nook doesn't recognize a weight, it doesn't guess a folder.
Add your own folder with ＋ Folder, or use a yarn's ⋯ menu to move it. To rename or delete a folder, open it and tap the ⋯ on the folder row. If you have more than one folder, you can reorder them from there too. On a wide screen, use the folder controls in the sidebar.
Deleting a folder doesn't delete its yarns. Yarns that aren't in a folder may go back into a weight folder the next time The Nook sorts your stash.
Your newest yarns show first. Switch between a photo grid and a list that shows colorway, lot, weight, fiber, and amount. The Nook remembers which view you picked.
Once you have 6 or more yarns, you can search. On a smaller screen, tap the search icon to open it. Search looks at the name, colorway, lot, weight, fiber, amount, and notes, and every word you type has to match something. For example, “dusty DK” can find a DK yarn in a dusty colorway.
Search only looks in the folder you're in. To search your whole stash, choose All. To clear the folder and the search, tap Yarn again, or close search with its clear button.
Type at least two letters of a yarn name to see suggestions from Ravelry's yarn list. Pick one to fill in the name, weight, grams, meters, and fiber. Anything Ravelry doesn't know stays as you had it. If you picked the wrong one, tap Undo next to it.
Once you've picked a yarn, Colorway can suggest its color names and codes. Suggestions need internet, but you don't need a Ravelry account. You can always type everything in yourself.
Once you connect Ravelry, you'll see an Import… bar in the Yarn section. Pick the yarns you want, or tap Select all, then import. The Nook copies over whatever Ravelry has: names, brands, colorways, dye lots, weights, fibers, amounts, notes, and photos. Yarns you've already imported are skipped, and importing doesn't change anything on Ravelry. On Free, you can import only as many yarns as you have spaces left.
To add a new yarn to both The Nook and Ravelry, turn on the Ravelry switch before you add it. The switch stays on for the next new yarn, so check it each time. To add a yarn you already have to Ravelry, open its details and turn on its Ravelry switch.
Once a yarn is linked, saving changes in The Nook sends them to Ravelry too, as long as you're connected. The switch shows it's linked, and you can't just turn it off. If the update doesn't go through, your yarn is still saved in The Nook. Check the message and tap retry. If you're not sure it worked, check Ravelry before adding it again.
If a linked yarn was deleted on Ravelry, The Nook shows Not on Ravelry anymore and lets you keep it in The Nook. When you delete a yarn yourself, read the confirmation and check its Ravelry switch. It decides whether you delete it only from The Nook or from both places.
With Ravelry connected, a yarn with a known weight can show pattern Ideas based on its weight and how much you have. If it's a Ravelry yarn, you can also see projects people made with it. See chapter 3.
Keep track of crochet hooks, circular needles, interchangeable tips, cables, DPNs (double-pointed needles), and straight needles. Choose a size in mm for needles and hooks. The US size fills in on its own unless you enter your own.
Pick from the sizes and lengths shown, or choose Other… to enter your own. Set Quantity to how many you own and In use to how many are in projects, then save. In use can't be more than Quantity. You keep these numbers up to date yourself, so change them when a tool is free again.
Tools are grouped by type, with crochet hooks first, and sorted by size (cables by length). Each group shows how many are in use and how many are free. A tool that's in use is shaded in, with a darker dot, and if you have more than one, you'll see a count. Tap a tool to see its details, edit it, or delete it.
Use the Import… bar in Tools to bring in needles and hooks from Ravelry. It copies the size, type, length, and notes, skips ones you already have, and doesn't change anything on Ravelry. Imported tools start as not in use, so set their quantity and in-use numbers afterward.
You need Pro or an active trial to add or edit buttons. Add a photo, name, material, size in mm, quantity, and notes. The materials are Wood, Metal, Shell, Plastic, Resin, Horn, and Glass. Tap the material you picked again to clear it.
A button needs a name or a photo. If it has a photo but no name, it's saved as Untitled button. Tap Add button or Save to keep it. Your newest buttons show first, with a count if you have more than one. Open a card to see, edit, or delete it.
Chapter 8
Your knitting and crochet life, day by day.
The calendar shows your making time, project dates, and daily notes all in one place. Swipe left or right, or use the arrows, to change months. Tap Today to go back to this month. Each month has a playful name, like Yarnuary, Socktober, and Purlcember.
The month view shows these names instead of the usual month names. The year view uses the usual names.
| In the app | Month |
|---|---|
| Yarnuary | January |
| Fiberuary | February |
| Mohair March | March |
| Apurl | April |
| Merino May | May |
| Knit in Public June | June |
| Lace July | July |
| Augaugest | August |
| Sweater September | September |
| Socktober | October |
| Knitvember | November |
| Purlcember | December |
A colored bar means a project has making time, a cast-on date, or a finished date on that day. The time shown under a date only comes from time you recorded. Timer and manual entries both count, as long as there's at least one minute for that day.
The bars don't fill in every day between cast-on and finish. A project being unfinished, or a calendar note, doesn't add a bar on its own. A cast-on or finished date can show a bar without adding time or a making day. If several projects have something on the same day, you'll see up to four bars and a +N for the rest. Tap the day to see them all.
Once a project has a cast-on date, you can pick its calendar color in Project details: automatic, one of the palette colors, or your own. You can also see all your calendar colors in Settings → Appearance.
You can see your activity, edit project dates, use the timer, and write daily notes on Free and Pro. If Pro ends, everything you've already recorded stays.
Below the grid, you'll see the makes that had time recorded, a cast-on date, or a finished date that month. An older project doesn't show up just because it isn't finished yet. Different makes of the same pattern can each have their own row.
Each row shows the make's name, color, progress, and dates. It can also show its making days and time for the month, a trophy if it's finished, or a resting label. Tap a row to open that project or earlier make.
The month summary counts finished makes and the days you recorded time. Working on two projects on the same day still counts as one making day. Cast-ons, finishes, and notes don't count as making days on their own.
Tap a date to see how much time you recorded that day and which projects you worked on, with each project's time next to it. Projects you cast on or finished that day show up too, marked as a cast-on or finish instead of a time. You'll also see that day's note (or Add note) and a Mark project date button.
Tap View [month] timeline to see the cast-ons, finishes, and notes for the whole month. It starts folded so you can focus on the day you picked. Tap anything in the timeline to open its project, make, or note.
Removing a cast-on date keeps the project's progress stages and recorded time, but it also clears the calendar color you picked. Earlier makes in the timeline open their saved record, and you can't remove their dates from here.
You can also set dates in Project details. Picking a stage to work on can add a cast-on date if there isn't one, and marking the make finished can add a finished date. Just choosing a progress type doesn't add a cast-on date. See chapter 5.
Open the project and choose → Making time. Tap ＋ for Add time, choose today or an earlier date, enter the hours and minutes, and save. This adds the time to that day on your calendar.
Tap a time entry to fix its date or length, or to delete it. Entries you added by hand are labeled differently from timer entries. Making time also has a small calendar to jump to a day's entries. See chapter 5 for the timer and for resetting a make's time.
On Free or Pro, open a day and tap Add note or Edit note. Write your note and, if you like, link it to a project you're working on. If you finish that project later, the note stays linked.
Tap Save to keep the note or Cancel to throw away your changes. To delete a note, clear its text and save. Notes show up when you open a day and in the month timeline. They don't add a dot or a bar to the calendar, and they don't count as a making day.
Tap the year above the month to see all twelve months. Days are highlighted when you recorded time, just like in the month view, and today has its own highlight. Cast-ons, finishes, and notes alone don't make a day a making day.
Use the arrows to change years, tap a month to open it, or tap Today to go back to this month. The year view uses the usual month names. For project names and time totals, open a month.
If there's something to sum up, like recorded time or projects, tap next to the month or year. You can also open the recap from the year summary.
Choose Bars or List, and show Projects, Types, or Both. Change the background, text, and graph colors, or make the background see-through. The light and dark previews show how a see-through card will look on different backgrounds. They aren't part of the image you share.
Tap Share to save or send the recap as a PNG image. The card only sums up what's already in The Nook. It doesn't add any time or change your projects.
Settings → General → Yarn festivals turns on or off the yarn festival dates shown below some months. These dates are built into the app and may not be up to date, so check the festival's website before you make plans.
Resting labels count from your cast-on date. An unfinished make becomes hibernating after 90 days and a UFO after 120 days. Finished and frogged makes never get these labels. The labels don't know when you last worked on a project. See chapter 2.
Chapter 9
Keep working on this device, pick up on another, and keep a backup of your own.
Cloud backup and syncing between devices come with Pro and the 14-day free trial. On Free, your projects stay on the device where you made them. You can still save a backup ZIP without Pro, to keep a copy or move your library.
Sync covers projects and makes, counters, progress, notes and page marks, folders, Plans and your shopping list, inventory, calendar notes, and time history. Most PDFs and images sync too. But seeing a project card doesn't always mean its PDF has downloaded yet.
To see or add another way to sign in to the same account, go to Settings → Manage account → Sign-in methods. Your Nook account and your Ravelry account are separate.
The main tools work offline with anything already on your device. Changes you make offline wait, then sync once you're back online and have sync. Ravelry, account changes, and downloading files that are only in the cloud need internet.
Settings tells you whether it's syncing, when it last finished, whether you're offline, whether something failed and can be tried again, or whether you need to sign in again. Do what it says. An old sync time or an offline label means your latest changes may not have reached your other device yet.
Before you switch devices, let the first one finish syncing. Then open the other device and check that the project and files you need are there. Sync keeps going all the time. A backup ZIP is different: it's a separate copy from one moment.
Some settings are just for each device: theme and text size, which side the toolbar is on, saved drawing colors, auto-start timer, yarn festivals, offline PDF choices, app lock, and notifications. Recent work and safety snapshots also stay on each device.
With cloud access, your PDFs have a private copy in the cloud as well as on your device. A very large PDF may stay only on this device, and you'll see a message that it can't sync. Its project and marks can still sync, but your other device needs the PDF itself to show the pattern.
To keep a PDF on this device so it opens offline, use the project's Keep for offline option. Patterns you're working on or opened recently are kept on the device too. An unfinished project counts as one you're working on if it has a cast-on date or progress stages.
When you have cloud access, Settings → Storage gives you these choices:
A cloud mark means the PDF isn't on this device right now. Open it while you're online to download it, and check that it opens before you go offline. Storage choices and Keep for offline are set on each device, so your iPad and iPhone can keep different patterns.
If your cloud space is full, new uploads wait. Nothing on your device is touched. Storage shows how much cloud space you've used, or tells you if it couldn't check. A failed check doesn't mean you've used nothing.
When your trial or Pro ends, nothing on your device is deleted. Your cloud copies are kept for at least 3 months after that, then they're set to be deleted. If you had a subscription, the extra time Apple gives to retry a failed payment can push that date later. Check the deletion date shown in the app.
While they're still there, the app tries to download PDFs that are only in the cloud back to your device. Open The Nook while you're online, give it time and enough space, and check that the files really downloaded. You can also save a full backup ZIP. Once the cloud copy is deleted, a file that was only in the cloud is gone.
Reminders before cloud deletion only arrive if notifications are allowed and the app has received the date. Don't count on a reminder. Keep your own copy of anything important.
Choose Settings → Backup & restore → Export a backup. Keep the app open while it makes the backup, then save the ZIP from the share sheet, for example to Files. Save it somewhere you can still get to if you lose this device.
The ZIP contains:
Yarn and button photos are included too. Your drawing is saved separately from the PDFs, so after you restore, you can still edit your marks. If you want a flat copy with your marks drawn onto each page, use Export with notes instead. See chapter 6.
A full backup needs every file. If a PDF is only in the cloud, The Nook asks to download it. If you say no, the backup stops. If a PDF, photo, or page image can't be read, a pattern changes while the backup is being made, or the backup can't finish safely, it stops and tells you why. It never calls a half-finished backup a success.
Ravelry photos you chose to keep online only are saved as links and small previews. The full photos aren't included, because they were never on your device. You'll still need Ravelry to see them.
Restoring can replace work you did after the backup was made. If you want to keep a copy of what you have now, export it first. The Nook also saves a safety snapshot before replacing anything, and stops if it can't save that snapshot. A damaged or incomplete backup is turned away before anything changes.
Do what the result screen says. A paused or unfinished restore isn't done yet and needs your attention. If the restore finished on this device but hasn't synced yet, go online to finish it. With sync on, the restored library also goes to your cloud account and your other devices.
Older JSON backups may not have the original PDFs or newer features. You can only restore what's in the backup. A project name or thumbnail can't bring back a missing PDF.
Settings → Backup & restore → Restore from backup → Recent work… is for smaller fixes. Choose a pattern, then pick what to bring back: Progress & notes, Handwriting, or Current make time. Read the confirmation before you restore it. Your current work is saved first, and the pattern file and other makes don't change.
Recent work keeps a short history on this device, for up to seven days. It's handy for undoing a change, but it won't help if you lose or replace your device.
The restore screen also lists safety snapshots, with when and why each was saved, like Before restore. They're made before big changes, and you'll see a preview before one replaces anything. They don't keep every day's work forever, and they don't sync.
Chapter 10
Choose how your nook looks, and the plan that fits your making.
Open Settings → Appearance → Color theme and choose from eight themes:
A theme changes the app around your work: cards, buttons, controls, and the background behind a pattern. Your theme is only for this device. To change the pattern page itself, use the project's Page color and Printed ink instead. See chapter 4.
In Settings → Appearance → Text size, choose Regular, Large, or Larger. The text changes right away, and this setting is only for this device. To make a pattern bigger, zoom in on the page.
Choose Left-handed or Right-handed in Settings → Appearance → Drawing hand. It flips the drawing icons (, , , and ) to fit your hand. The toolbar, timer, counters, and everything else stay where they are. If you have sync, this setting follows your Nook account to your other devices.
Your companion sets the illustrations you see around the app. Choose Cats, Sheep, or Cozy corner in Settings → Appearance → Companion. It only changes the pictures. Every companion has the same tools.
Calendar colors is in Appearance too. Use it to change your project colors. See chapter 8 for how they show up in the calendar.
The app is in English. In the General part of Settings, you can also change these:
These settings are only for this device.
Open Settings → Storage to see how much space The Nook uses on this device: patterns, yarn photos, pen marks and notes, recovery copies, temporary files, and everything else. Recovery copies count too, because they keep your saved work safe.
The Clear button next to Temporary files removes page files the app can make again whenever it needs them. Your projects, original patterns, notes, inventory, and gallery photos aren't touched. If measuring or clearing doesn't work, follow the message. A missing number doesn't mean nothing is stored.
Cloud storage, and which patterns stay on this device, have their own controls on this screen. Read chapter 9 before you change where your pattern files are kept.
You can use The Nook as a guest on Free without starting a trial. Signing in with an eligible Nook account starts a 14-day free trial with Pro features, cloud backup, and sync. Signing back in to an account keeps its plan and trial history. Reinstalling the app or signing in again doesn't start a new trial.
| Feature | Free | Pro |
|---|---|---|
| Patterns | 3 | ∞ |
| Yarn stash | 3 | ∞ |
| Plans | ✓ | ✓ |
| Row counters | ✓ | ✓ |
| Pen & highlighter | ✓ | ✓ |
| Project timer & calendar | ✓ | ✓ |
| Ravelry, PDF & photo import | ✓ | ✓ |
| ZIP backup & restore | ✓ | ✓ |
| Note & text pages, files | · | ✓ |
| Chart highlighter | · | ✓ |
| Camera scan | · | ✓ |
| Make it again | · | ✓ |
| Gauge, shaping & dart calculators | · | ✓ |
| Page color & printed ink | · | ✓ |
| Add & edit button stash | · | ✓ |
| Export patterns with your marks | · | ✓ |
| Cloud backup & sync | · | ✓ |
∞ means unlimited. Blank Note projects need Pro or an active trial. Very large PDFs may be too big to add on Free.
A yarn entry is one yarn you've saved, not one ball. Tools and buttons are separate lists and don't count toward your 3 yarn spaces. Project photos are also separate from images you add to pattern pages. See chapter 7 and chapter 6.
To see the plans, tap the plan badge on your account card in Settings. The monthly and yearly options show prices in your App Store currency, including any intro price and the price after it. Check the prices in the app before you choose.
You need a Nook account to buy Pro or use Restore purchases. If you're a guest, the app asks you to sign in first. If prices don't load, tap retry if you see it. You can't buy until the price has loaded.
Already bought Pro? Tap Restore purchases on the plan screen and check the result. This only restores your subscription. Restoring a backup ZIP is something else, under Backup & restore.
To change or cancel your subscription, go to your subscriptions in the App Store. If you see Settings → Manage account → Manage subscription, it takes you there.
Blank Note projects need Pro. Project details, Text pages, text boxes, and sticky notes are all different ways to keep notes. In the pattern viewer, changes in Project details save automatically. A sticky note sits on a page, including blank note paper.
Export with notes in the pattern viewer is a Pro feature. The exported pages include your sticky notes, text boxes, page images, and drawn marks. Project details aren't part of it. A Text page project has its own export menu. See chapter 6 for how each one works and what's included.
Export a backup works on both plans. It saves your whole library as a ZIP you can restore later. That's different from exporting pages with your marks, and different from syncing to the cloud. See chapter 9.
Free never runs out. When a trial or Pro ends, nothing saved on this device is deleted. Pro features will ask you to upgrade, but the Free tools keep working in your open projects.
If you have more than 3 patterns and haven't already picked your Free ones, The Nook asks which 3 to keep open. The ones you opened most recently are picked to start with. If you have more than 3 yarn entries, you also choose which 3 to keep. Your picks stay the same. Changing a folder, searching, or sorting doesn't swap a locked item into an open spot.
Finishing a pattern keeps its Free spot. Deleting it frees the spot up. Blank Note and Text page projects don't use a pattern spot, but you need Pro or an active trial to make them. The rest of your patterns and yarn entries stay saved but locked on Free. Tap a locked item to see the Pro option. Upgrading opens everything again. Your marks and photos stay saved too, even though adding or exporting some of them needs Pro.
Cloud copies are kept for at least 3 months after your trial or Pro ends. If you had a subscription, the extra time Apple gives to retry a failed payment can push the deletion date later. Before your cloud copies are deleted, download any files you need and save a full backup. See chapter 9.
도안도, 단수도, 실도 The Nook 안에 다 있어요. 저장은 알아서 되고요. 이 설명서는 앱의 구석구석을 차례로 짚어줘요, 처음부터 읽어도 좋고, 필요한 장만 골라 봐도 좋아요.
1장
앱을 열면 바로 쓸 수 있어요. 계정은 없어도 돼요.
로그인하지 않아도 전부 쓸 수 있어요. 도안을 넣고, 단수를 세고, 실 재고를 정리하는 것까지요. 로그인(Apple 또는 Google)은 두 가지를 열어줘요. 14일 무료 체험이 그때 시작되고(그동안은 전부 열려 있어요), 클라우드 백업과 기기 간 동기화도 로그인해야 돼요. 로그인하지 않으면 처음부터 무료 플랜이에요. 10장을 봐주세요.
아래쪽에 탭이 다섯 개 있어요:
2장
프로젝트 하나에 도안·카운터·메모·사진이 함께 담겨요.
무료에서는 PDF 도안이나 사진 한 장으로 프로젝트를 시작할 수 있어요. 도안 없이 시작하는 새 노트·텍스트 프로젝트는 Pro 또는 체험 기간에 만들 수 있어요. 프로젝트 메모와 포스트잇, 카운터는 별개의 기능이에요.
프로젝트 목록은 지금 어떤 상태인지에 따라 저절로 나뉘어요. 해당하는 게 있을 때만 그 묶음이 보이고요:
직접 정하는 게 아니라 시작한 날과 완성한 날을 따라가요. 달력의 띠도 같은 말로 나뉘고요.
프로젝트를 폴더로 묶어 정리할 수 있어요. 연도별로, 선물할 사람별로, 뜨개 종류별로, 원하는 대로요. 프로젝트마다 사진첩이 있어서 완성작 사진을 모아둘 수 있고, 사진을 누르면 크게 볼 수 있어요. 목록이 길어지면 위쪽 돋보기로 프로젝트 이름을 바로 검색할 수 있고요.
프로젝트마다 두 날짜를 남길 수 있어요. 메모 시트에 있고(6장), 오늘 시작·오늘 완성 버튼으로 한 번에 넣을 수 있어요. 완성한 날을 넣으면 그 프로젝트가 완성으로 바뀌고 달력에도 표시돼요.
3장
도안을 찾는 것도, 내 Ravelry 기록을 가져오는 것도 The Nook 안에서 돼요.
Ravelry는 두 가지로 쓸 수 있어요. 새 도안을 둘러보는 것, 그리고 계정을 연결해 내 뜨개 기록을 가져오는 것이에요.
새 프로젝트를 만들 때 도안 찾기 화면에 Ravelry 탭이 있어요. 여기서 Ravelry의 도안을 통째로 검색하고, 아무 도안이나 열어서 설명과 사진, 다른 사람들의 완성작까지 볼 수 있어요. 여기까지는 계정이 없어도 돼요.
가져오는 건 계정이 필요해요. 무료 도안도 내 Ravelry 계정을 통해서 들어오거든요. ravelry.com에서 받는 것과 같은 방식이에요. 그래서 연결 전에는 무료 도안의 단추가 Connect Ravelry to add로 떠요. 연결하고 나면 한 번 누르면 끝이고요. 디자이너가 파일을 Ravelry가 아닌 곳에 뒀다면 그 도안 페이지를 열어줘서 PDF를 받아 직접 넣을 수 있어요.
도안을 열고 Projects 탭으로 가면 다른 뜨개인들의 완성작이 최근 순으로 쭉 이어져요. 피드를 넘기듯 보면 돼요. 사진은 옆으로 넘기고 그 아래 메모가 있어요. 화보가 아니라 진짜 실, 진짜 몸, 진짜 조명으로 본 도안이에요.
댓글을 쓰려면 Ravelry에서 권한을 하나 더 받아야 해요. 다시 연결하라는 안내가 뜨면 Ravelry 화면의 계정 메뉴에서 다시 연결해주세요.
연결은 도안 찾기 화면에서 하는데, 화면에 따라 자리가 조금 달라요.
My projects나 Queue에서 바로 The Nook 프로젝트를 시작할 수 있어요. Saved는 The Nook 안에 있는 내 즐겨찾기라 Ravelry 계정이 없어도 써요. iPad에서는 다섯 곳 중 하나고, iPhone에서는 위쪽의 ♡예요.
연결하고 나면 Library에 Ravelry에서 가진 도안이 다 있어요. 구매한 도안까지요. 누르면 PDF가 The Nook으로 바로 들어와서 읽고 쓸 수 있어요. 디자이너가 파일을 여러 개 올렸다면(언어가 여럿이거나 차트가 따로 있거나) Add to The Nook을 누른 다음에 물어봐요. 단추 자리가 Pick a version 줄로 바뀌고, 이름은 디자이너가 붙인 파일 이름 그대로예요.
Ravelry의 내 프로젝트는 My projects에서 기다려요. 위쪽에 몇 개가 있는지 알려주는 줄과 Import 단추가 뜨는데, 그걸 누르고 한 번 더 확인하기 전까지는 아무것도 안 가져와요. 모르는 사이에 앱이 채워지는 일은 없어요. Ravelry에 있는 프로젝트는 완성한 것까지 전부 후보로 올라오고, 이미 가져왔거나 여기서 지운 것만 빠져요.
함께 오는 것은 사진, 메모, 게이지, 바늘, 쓴 실, 시작한 날과 완성한 날이에요. 가져온 뒤에도 Ravelry와 연결된 채라 진행 상황을 다시 올릴 수 있어요.
디자이너가 도안을 수정하면, 그 도안을 Library에서 다음에 열 때 알게 돼요. 위에 무엇이 바뀌었는지 디자이너가 쓴 말 그대로 뜨고, Add to The Nook을 누르면 수정본이 적용된 최신 파일로 들어와요.
Ravelry는 실 재고에도 닿아 있어요. 실 이름과 색상명은 Ravelry의 실 데이터베이스에서 자동으로 채워지는데 이건 계정이 없어도 돼요. 연결하면 거기에 더해 내 실을 Ravelry 재고에 올릴 수 있고요.
바늘과 코바늘도 같은 방식으로 건너와요. 연결한 다음 실 재고 탭의 Tools를 열고 Ravelry에 적어둔 것들을 가져오면 돼요. 여기 이미 있는 건 건드리지 않아요. 크기와 종류, 길이가 같으면 같은 자루로 보거든요. 그래서 두 번 눌러도 같은 바늘이 두 개가 되지 않아요. 7장을 봐주세요.
4장
프로젝트를 열면 도안이 화면 가득 펼쳐져요. 나머지는 필요할 때까지 비켜 있어요.
위쪽에는 뒤로 가기, 프로젝트 이름, 그리고 사진·페이지·책갈피·메모·⋯ 메뉴가 있어요. iPhone에서는 이 네 아이콘이 ⋯ 안으로 들어가 줄이 넉넉해지고, 큰 iPad 가로에서는 게이지 계산기·경사 도우미·포스트잇이 자기 아이콘으로 나와요. 그 아래 띠에는 지금 단계와 진행 막대·퍼센트가, 오른쪽에 뜨개 타이머가 있고요(5장). 그리는 중에도 이 띠는 그대로 있어요. 그리기 도구는 그 아래에(가로모드에서는 옆쪽에), 카운터는 맨 아래에 있어요.
필기·카운터·단수 자·차트 표시·포스트잇은 하면서 알아서 저장돼요. 작게 저장했어요 ✓가 뜨면 저장된 거예요. 딱 하나, 메모 시트만 저장을 눌러야 남아요.
도안이 없어도 괜찮아요. 페이지를 넣지 않으면 깨끗한 화면이 나오고, 카운터는 그대로 쓸 수 있어요.
⋯ 메뉴에는 네 가지가 있어요. 마지막 것 빼고 아래에서 다뤄요:
바둑판 버튼을 누르면 전체 페이지가 작은 그림으로 펼쳐져요. 페이지를 누르면 그 자리로 가고, 리본을 누르면 책갈피가 붙어요. PDF 도안은 보고 있던 페이지에 테두리가 생기고 그 자리로 스크롤돼 있어서, 40장짜리 도안도 1쪽부터 다시 찾지 않아도 돼요.
그다음에 할 수 있는 건 도안이 어디서 왔는지에 따라 달라요:
마지막 페이지 아래로 스크롤하면 ＋ 메모 페이지 추가가 올라와요. 뜨다가 적을 자리가 모자랄 때 한 번만 누르면 새 종이가 뒤에 붙어요.
위쪽 리본을 누르면 보고 있는 페이지에 책갈피가 붙어요. 이미 붙어 있으면 리본이 채워져 보이고, 다시 누르면 떨어져요. 도안 가장자리에 표시가 남고, ⋯ 메뉴의 책갈피에서 붙여둔 페이지를 모아 볼 수 있어요. 목록 맨 위에는 지금 페이지가 있어서 바로 붙이거나 뗄 수 있고요.
자리를 잃지 않게 도와주는 자예요. 도구에서 켜고 위아래로 끌어 지금 뜨는 단에 놓아요. 양 끝을 안쪽으로 당기면 한 칸이나 펼침면 한쪽만 덮게 할 수 있어요. 놓아둔 자리에 그대로 있고, 도안을 다시 열어도 그 자리예요.
차트를 볼 때 도구의 ▦를 누르면 페이지가 살짝 어두워지면서 한 단만 밝게 떠요. 화면 가운데 있는 페이지에 적용돼요.
3 / 16을 누르면 설정이 다시 열려서 틀이나 단 수를 바꿀 수 있고, ✕로 지울 수 있어요. 차트가 여러 개인 도안이면 한 페이지에 여러 개 만들어도 돼요.
▦는 껐다 켰다 하는 버튼이에요. 다시 누르면 표시가 숨어서 페이지를 깨끗하게 볼 수 있어요.
⋯ 메뉴의 포스트잇 붙이기를 누르면(큰 iPad 가로에서는 위쪽에 자기 아이콘도 있어요) 보고 있는 페이지에 작은 메모지가 붙어요. 내용을 적고, 파스텔 색 다섯 가지 중에 고르고, 기울기도 정할 수 있어요. 진짜 포스트잇처럼 살짝 비뚤게 두거나, 똑바로를 눌러 반듯하게 맞추거나요. 완료를 누르거나 바깥을 누르면 저장돼요.
손가락으로 끌어 옮기고, 누르면 고칠 수 있고, 삭제로 뗄 수 있어요. 그리기 중일 때 Apple Pencil은 포스트잇을 그냥 지나쳐서 그 위로 선이 지나가요. 손가락으로는 여전히 집어서 옮길 수 있고요.
⋯ 메뉴에 있고, 큰 iPad 가로에서는 위쪽에 자기 아이콘으로도 나와요. 도안의 게이지와 내 게이지를 넣으면, 내가 뜰 때 실제로 나올 치수를 계산해줘요. 너비와 길이를, 센티미터와 인치로 함께요. 계산 버튼은 없어요. 숫자를 넣는 대로 바로 바뀌고, cm와 인치 칸은 서로 채워주니까 재기 편한 단위로 넣으면 돼요. 초기화로 비울 수 있어요.
계산기 안의 Shaping…(⋯ 메뉴에도 있어요)은 코 늘림·줄임을 계획해줘요. 몇 코에서 몇 코로, 몇 단에 걸쳐 갈지 넣으면 "몇 단마다 한 번" 리듬을 따라 하기만 하면 되게 펼쳐줘요.
여기 넣은 내 게이지는 프로젝트 메모에 있는 것과 같은 값이에요. 한쪽에서 고치면 다른 쪽도 함께 바뀌어요.
사진 버튼을 누르면 도안을 벗어나지 않고 그 프로젝트의 사진첩이 열려요. 뜨는 중간 사진, 완성작, 챙겨두려던 실 라벨 같은 것들요.
5장
단수를 원하는 방식으로 세요. 하나만 써도, 여러 개를 써도 늘 한 번에 닿아요.
도안 아래쪽 카운터는 크기가 세 가지예요. ⌃와 ⌄로 오가고, 중간 크기에서 ＋를 누르면 전체 관리 화면이 열려요. 카운터를 직접 눌러도 똑같이 열리고요. 마지막에 쓰던 크기를 기억해요.
아래쪽의 큰 ＋와 −가 전부를 움직여요. 한 번 누르면 단수와 연결된 카운터가 함께 올라가서, 반복 카운터가 지금 단수와 어긋나지 않아요.
자리를 잃었거나 뜨다 만 걸 다시 잡았을 때는, 큰 숫자를 눌러 지금 단수를 바로 적어 넣으면 돼요. 아래에 안내도 적혀 있고요. 연결된 카운터도 같은 만큼 함께 움직이고, 도안의 단수 자도 따라가요.
크게 펼친 화면의 모두 초기화는 단수와 연결된 카운터를 모두 0으로 되돌려요. 누르면 한 번 물어봐요.
＋ 카운터 추가로 도안에 적힌 대로 만들면 돼요. "7단마다, 8번"처럼요. 끝없이 반복하게 둘 수도 있고, 정해진 횟수를 채우면 멈추게 할 수도 있어요.
크게 펼치면 카운터마다 이름·간격·지금 위치가 보여요. ⚙를 누르면 이름을 바꾸거나 간격을 고치거나 목표를 정할 수 있어요. 목표를 다 채운 카운터에는 완료 ✓가 붙어요.
프로젝트를 단계로 나눠두면(코단, 몸통, 어깨…) 얼마나 왔는지 보여요. 도안 위쪽 띠에 단계 이름·진행 막대·퍼센트 순서로 뜨고, 아직 정하지 않았으면 ＋ 진행률 설정이 보여요. 이건 이 프로젝트 하나를, 이 화면에서 읽는 값이에요. 달력의 띠는 시작한 날과 완성한 날로 그려지지, 단계와는 상관없어요.
같은 띠에서 타이머를 시작하면 프로젝트마다 뜬 시간이 쌓여요. 합계와 연속 기록은 통계에서 볼 수 있어요. 시계는 돌 때도 쉴 때도 늘 시:분:초(00:00:00)로 읽혀서, 자릿수가 늘어도 주변이 밀리지 않아요.
타이머는 열어둔 프로젝트에 붙어 있어요. 도안에서 나가면 그때까지의 시간이 바로 기록되고, 다른 앱으로 넘어가거나 화면을 잠가도 마찬가지예요. 뒤에서 계속 돌아가는 일은 없어요.
타이머는 무료 플랜에서도 쓸 수 있어요. 기록해둔 시간은 통계에 그대로 남고요.
6장
도안 위에 종이처럼 바로 쓰고 그려요.
도안에 직접 표시하면 돼요. 뜬 단을 지우고, 내 사이즈에 동그라미 치고, 고친 부분을 적어두고요. 아무리 확대해도 선이 또렷하고, 프로젝트에 함께 저장돼요.
Pencil이 화면에 닿는 순간, The Nook은 화면의 나머지를 못 본 척해요. 올려둔 손바닥도, 스친 손가락도, 손날도요. 자국이 남지도, 화면이 밀리지도, 확대되지도 않아요. 쓰다가 손을 옮겨도 선이 끊기지 않고요. Pencil을 내려놓을 때 손도 함께 편하게 두면, 종이에 쓰듯 쓸 수 있어요.
펜·형광펜·지우개·색 중에 아무거나 누르면 바로 그리기로 바뀌어요. 읽기 전용을 먼저 풀지 않아도 돼요.
휴지통은 보고 있는 페이지만 비워요. 도안 전체가 아니라 그 한 장이에요. 따로 묻지도, 알리지도 않아요. 페이지가 비는 게 곧 대답이에요. 잘못 눌렀다면 되돌리기로 그대로 돌아와요. 그 뒤에 새로 그리지만 않았다면요. 지워지는 건 내가 그린 것뿐이고, 도안·카운터·메모·포스트잇·단수 자·차트 표시는 그대로예요.
도구 설정은 그때그때만 유지돼요. 어떤 도구였는지, 무슨 색이었는지, 굵기와 직선 스위치는 도안을 다시 열면 기본값으로 돌아와요. 남는 건 그려둔 것뿐이에요.
직선 버튼은 따로 있는 도구가 아니라, 펜과 형광펜을 곧게 만드는 스위치예요. 켜고 펜을 대고 끌면, 손을 따라가는 대신 시작한 자리에서 지금 자리까지 곧은 선이 그어져요. 떼기 전까지 이리저리 돌려가며 맞출 수 있고요. 가로·세로·45도 근처에서는 알아서 딱 맞춰줘요.
뜬 단을 그어 지우거나, 내 사이즈 칸을 따라 선을 긋거나, 지금 보는 줄에 밑줄을 칠 때 좋아요. 지우개는 이 스위치를 따르지 않고 늘 손을 따라가요.
지우개는 지나간 자리를 지워요. 진짜 지우개처럼요. 굵기 조절이 곧 지우개 크기고요. 아래 도안은 건드리지 않고 내가 그린 것만 지워져요.
지우개 버튼은 껐다 켰다 하는 버튼이에요. 다시 누르면 직전에 쓰던 도구로 그 굵기 그대로 돌아와요. 버튼을 찾아다니지 않아도 되고요.
Apple Pencil(2세대 또는 Pro)이라면 펜슬을 두 번 톡톡 쳐서 같은 걸 할 수 있어요. 어떤 도구로 바뀌었는지 잠깐 알려줘요. 읽기 전용에서도 되는데, 이때는 그리기로 함께 바뀌어요. iPad의 Pencil 설정을 따르니까, iOS 설정에서 두 번 치기를 꺼두었다면 여기서도 꺼진 채예요.
위쪽 메모 버튼을 누르면 빈 종이가 아니라 작은 서식이 이 순서로 열려요:
앱에서 유일하게 기다려주는 자리예요. 저장을 눌러야 남아요. 닫기를 누르거나 바깥을 누르면 적은 게 사라져요.
프로젝트를 끝냈거나, 내가 뜬 그대로를 누군가에게 보내고 싶을 때가 있잖아요. ⋯ 메뉴의 필기와 함께 내보내기는 도안 위에 얹은 걸 전부 담아 저장해요. 손글씨, 형광펜, 직선, 포스트잇까지요. 도안에 페이지가 있어야 보여요.
형식마다 나오는 게 달라요:
만드는 동안 페이지를 세는 화면이 보여요. 끝날 때까지 앱을 열어두세요. 60장이 넘게 고르면 해상도를 조금 낮춰서 만들어요. 큰 파일을 만들다가 중간에 멈추지 않게요. 기준은 고른 장 수라, 긴 도안에서 몇 장만 골랐다면 원래 크기 그대로 나와요.
내보내기는 Pro 기능이에요. 체험 기간에는 열려 있고, 그 뒤 무료 플랜에서는 업그레이드 화면이 대신 열려요.
7장
사기 전에 뭐가 있는지 알 수 있어요. (아니면 말고요. 말 안 할게요.)
실 재고 탭 위쪽에 세 가지가 있어요. 실, 도구, 단추. 각각 몇 개인지 옆에 숫자가 붙어요.
실마다 사진, 이름, 색상명, 롯트 번호, 굵기, 섬유, 얼마나 있는지(타래·그램·미터), 메모를 적어둘 수 있어요. 실이 여섯 개가 되면 위에 검색창이 생기고, 굵기가 두 종류 이상이 되면 굵기 필터도 함께 나와요. 검색은 적어둔 걸 다 뒤져요. 이름·색상명·롯트·굵기·섬유·수량·메모까지요. 폴더로 정리해두면 실 가게에서 "이거 이미 있던가?"에 바로 답할 수 있고요.
실 이름을 치기 시작하면 Ravelry의 실 데이터베이스가 뒤를 채워줘요. 하나 고르면 굵기·섬유·길이가 저절로 들어가고, 색상명 칸에는 그 실의 실제 색상명이 뜨고요. 이건 Ravelry 계정이 없어도 돼요. 로그인 안 해도 그대로 써요.
계정을 연결하면 반대 방향이 열려요. Ravelry의 실 재고를 가져오는 Import 줄과, 내 실을 Ravelry 재고에 올리는 단추요.
바늘과 코바늘이에요. 밀리미터로 넣으면 US 사이즈는 알아서 채워지고, 종류와 길이, 메모를 함께 적어둘 수 있어요. 줄바늘과 조립식은 줄 길이를, 대바늘과 장갑바늘은 바늘 길이를 적고, 조립식은 팁 길이를 줄 길이와 따로 둬요. 코바늘에는 길이 칸이 없고요.
종류별로 묶여서 가는 것부터 굵은 순서로 보여요. 지금 쓰는 중으로 표시해두면 새로 뜨기 전에 뭐가 이미 나가 있는지 알 수 있고요.
단추는 사진을 찍어두고 이름, 재질(나무·금속·자개·플라스틱·레진·뿔·유리), 크기(mm), 개수, 메모를 적어요. 사진 카드로 보여서 찾던 단추를 한눈에 알아볼 수 있어요.
8장
뜨개의 나날이 하루씩 남아요.
프로젝트마다 시작한 날부터 완성한 날까지 띠가 이어져요. 아직 뜨는 중이면 오늘까지 이어지고요. 지금 어떤 상태인지에 따라 색이 달라요. 진행 중, 완성, 동면 중, 오래 잊고 있던 실종 중처럼요. 시작한 날과 완성한 날에는 표시가 붙고, 뜬 날에는 그날의 뜨개 시간이 남아요.
날짜를 누르면 그날이 선택되면서 무슨 일이 있었는지 보여요. 한 번 더 누르거나 추가 버튼을 누르면 메모를 적거나 프로젝트를 표시할 수 있고요. 좌우로 넘겨 달을 옮기고, 연도 버튼을 누르면 열두 달이 한눈에 펼쳐지면서 뜬 날이 밝게 표시돼요. 그달에 열리는 실 축제 목록도 조그맣게 붙어 있어요.
9장
기준은 내 기기예요. 클라우드는 그 사본이고요.
클라우드 백업과 기기 간 동기화는 Pro에 포함돼요. 로그인한 계정의 14일 체험 기간에도 열려 있어요. 무료 플랜에서는 기기에 저장해서 쓰고, ZIP 백업과 복원은 계속 사용할 수 있어요. 10장을 봐주세요.
The Nook은 기기가 먼저예요. 인터넷이 없어도 다 되고, 연결되면 그때 맞춰져요. 지금 상태는 설정의 동기화 표시에서 볼 수 있어요.
Sync가 없어도 잃는 건 없어요. 뜨개 기록이 만든 기기에 그대로 남아 있을 뿐이에요. 옮기거나 사본을 남기려면 아래의 백업 파일을 쓰면 돼요.
필기는 바로바로 건너와요. 같은 도안을 두 기기에서 열어두면, 한쪽에 쓴 게 도안을 닫았다 열지 않아도 다른 쪽에 나타나요.
도안 PDF는 나머지보다 무거워요. 그래서 지금 뜨고 있는 도안은 미리 받아두고, 나머지는 열 때 받아와요. 받는 동안에는 알려드리고, 도착하면 페이지가 나타나요.
Sync가 켜져 있으면 도안 PDF는 기기와 클라우드 양쪽에 있어요. 지금 뜨고 있는 도안은 언제나 기기에 남아 있고요. 완성한 지 오래됐고 한동안 안 연 도안은 클라우드에 두고 기기 공간을 돌려받을 수 있어요. 없어지는 게 아니라서 누르면 다시 내려받아요.
클라우드에 있고 이 기기에는 없는 도안은 표지에 작은 구름이 붙어요. 한 번 열면 다시 내려와서 그대로 남아요.
이 선택은 기기마다 따로예요. 아이패드에 받아둔 게 아이폰 공간을 쓰지는 않아요.
동기화와는 별개로, 설정의 백업 내보내기가 전부를 파일 하나에 담아요. 프로젝트와 그 메모·카운터·단계·책갈피·포스트잇·차트 표시·갤러리 사진·Ravelry 연결, 직접 넣은 사진과 메모 페이지와 그 위의 필기, 폴더, 실 재고와 사진, 바늘과 코바늘, 단추와 그 사진, 달력 메모, 타이머 기록까지요.
딱 하나 못 담는 게 PDF 원본이에요. PDF로 들어온 도안의 파일 자체는 앱이 따로 보관하거든요. 복원하면 그 프로젝트에 얹어둔 건 다 돌아오고, PDF만 다시 넣어주시면 돼요.
백업에서 복원으로 되돌릴 수 있고, 저장할 때의 이름과 테마도 함께 돌아와요. 언어 설정은 파일에 담기지만 복원할 때 적용되지는 않아요. 다르면 설정에서 다시 골라주세요.
10장
내 취향대로 두세요.
설정에서 테마 여덟 가지 중에 고를 수 있어요:
테마는 뜨개를 둘러싼 화면의 색을 바꿔요. 바, 카드, 버튼, 도안 뒤의 바탕처럼요. 도안 자체에는 색을 입히지 않아요. 어두운 테마에서도 도안은 자기 종이색 그대로예요.
The Nook은 한국어와 English를 써요. 기기 언어를 알아서 따라가고, 설정 → 화면 → 언어에서 직접 고를 수도 있어요. 이 선택은 고른 기기에만 남아요.
앱 곳곳의 빈 화면에서 옆을 지켜주는 작은 친구들이 컴패니언이에요. 설정 → 화면에서 고양이, 양, Cozy corner 중에 고르면 돼요. 순전히 보기 좋으라고 있는 거라, 다른 건 아무것도 바뀌지 않아요.
뭐가 자리를 차지하는지 궁금하면, 설정에서 The Nook이 이 기기에서 쓰는 공간을 볼 수 있어요. 도안, 실 사진, 필기·메모, 임시 파일, 그 외로 나눠서 보여줘요. 거기 있는 비우기는 다시 만들 수 있는 임시 파일만 지워요. 뜨개 기록은 건드리지 않아요.
무료 플랜은 계정 없이 게스트로도 계속 쓸 수 있어요. 체험 대상인 Nook 계정으로 로그인하면 14일 무료 체험이 시작되고, Pro 기능과 클라우드 백업·동기화가 열려요. 같은 계정으로 다시 로그인하거나 앱을 다시 설치해도 체험이 새로 시작되지는 않아요. 체험이 끝나면 무료로 계속 쓰거나 Pro를 구독할 수 있어요:
| 기능 | 무료 | Pro |
|---|---|---|
| 도안 | 3 | ∞ |
| 실 재고 | 3 | ∞ |
| 계획 | ✓ | ✓ |
| 단수 세기 | ✓ | ✓ |
| 펜과 형광펜 | ✓ | ✓ |
| 타이머와 달력 | ✓ | ✓ |
| Ravelry·PDF·사진 가져오기 | ✓ | ✓ |
| ZIP 백업과 복원 | ✓ | ✓ |
| 노트·텍스트 페이지, 파일 | · | ✓ |
| 차트 하이라이터 | · | ✓ |
| 카메라 스캔 | · | ✓ |
| 다시 뜨기 | · | ✓ |
| 게이지·셰이핑·다트 계산기 | · | ✓ |
| 페이지 색과 인쇄 잉크 | · | ✓ |
| 단추 재고 | · | ✓ |
| 필기를 포함한 도안 내보내기 | · | ✓ |
| 클라우드 백업과 동기화 | · | ✓ |
✓는 사용할 수 있는 기능, ·는 포함되지 않은 기능, ∞는 무제한이라는 뜻이에요. 무료에서는 Ravelry·PDF·사진을 가져올 수 있지만 도안 3개 제한은 그대로 적용돼요. 새 노트·텍스트 프로젝트는 Pro 또는 체험 기간에 만들 수 있어요. 프로젝트 메모·포스트잇·달력 메모와는 구분돼요.
지금 가격은 설정 → 플랜 보기에서 내 통화로 볼 수 있어요.
무료는 기간 제한 없이 쓸 수 있는 플랜이에요. 카운터, 펜·형광펜·지우개, 단수 자, 프로젝트 메모와 포스트잇, 타이머와 달력 메모, ZIP 백업과 복원은 계속 사용할 수 있어요.
무료에서는 선택한 도안 3개와 실 3개를 사용할 수 있어요. 무료 자리를 모두 채우면 새 도안을 추가하려면 Pro로 업그레이드하거나 선택한 도안을 삭제해 자리를 마련해야 해요. 도안을 완성해도 한 자리를 차지해요. 도안 없이 시작하는 새 노트·텍스트 프로젝트는 Pro에 포함돼요.
Pro에는 새 노트·텍스트 페이지와 파일 추가, 차트 하이라이터, 카메라 스캔, 다시 뜨기, 게이지·셰이핑·다트 계산기, 페이지 색과 인쇄 잉크, 단추 재고, 필기를 포함한 도안 내보내기, 클라우드 백업과 동기화가 포함돼요. 도안 위에 이미지를 추가하는 것도 Pro 기능이에요. 사진 한 장으로 새 도안을 시작하는 것과 프로젝트 사진첩은 무료에서도 사용할 수 있어요.
체험이나 Pro가 끝나도 기기에 저장한 작업은 지워지지 않아요. 도안이 3개보다 많고 무료 선택을 아직 확정하지 않았다면 어떤 3개를 열어둘지 고르게 해줘요. 최근에 연 도안이 처음에 골라져 있어요. 실이 3개보다 많을 때도 사용할 3개를 고를 수 있어요. 확정한 선택은 그대로 유지돼요. 나머지도 저장되어 있고, 잠긴 항목을 누르면 Pro를 안내해요. 완성작은 계속 열어 볼 수 있고, 업그레이드하면 전체가 다시 열려요. 클라우드 사본의 보관 기간은 별도로 적용돼요.